Basic Textile Terms
Abrasion resistance
The ability of a textile or surface material to withstand abrasion and friction without color changes or changes to other physical properties.
Abrasion tests
Tests performed on textiles or surface materials. Designed to gauge resistance to abrasion, friction, scuffing and other forms of abuse. The Wyzenbeek is the most commonly used abrasion test.
Absorbency
The ability of a textile to absorb liquid. Measured both in terms of how much liquid can be absorbed and the rate at which absorption occurs.
A.C.T. Textile Guidelines
Guidelines created for the textile industry by the Association for Contract Textiles. Covering abrasion, fire retardancy, color-fastness (to light and crocking) and physical properties.
Back
The reverse side of a textile; not seen in regular use. The opposite of the front or face.
Backing
A material or coating used on the back of a textile to reduce fraying, slipping and raveling. Also helps the textile keep its shape.
Blends
A mix of different fiber types combined to create a yarn or fabric.
Bouclé yarn
A mixed yarn created by plying a looped yarn and a straight yarn. Adds surface interest and texture to textiles.
Carding
A yarn manufacturing process in which short fibers are forced to lay parallel to each other. This forms a roving, which is spun into yarn.
Color
Color properties are hue, value and saturation.
Colorways
The colors or color combinations that are available for a surface material.
Crepe
A woven textile with a pebbled or grained surface. No visible repeated pattern.
Crocking
When abrasion causes color or dyes to transfer from one surface to another.
Custom color
A color created to suit a customer's unique needs.
Cutting direction
The direction a pattern piece is cut from a roll of fabric. Can be vertical or horizontal.
Dobby weave
A textile woven on a dobby loom. This process creates a small-scale pattern.
Fabric treatment
Chemical enhancement of a fabric to improve its stain resistance, fire resistance, abrasion resistance or other properties.
Face
The front or finished side of a fabric; the side designed to be seen.
Fiber
A natural or manufactured material that is spun into yarn and then woven into a fabric.
Fill yarns (weft)
The horizontal threads of a woven fabric.
Finish
An industry term used to describe processes like fulling, decating, pressing, calendering and other treatments that make a woven fabric ready for use.
Fire resistance
The measure of a fabric's ability to resist ignition and burning.
Hand
The way a fabric feels to the touch and how it drapes.
Heathered
The blending of colors or values in a fiber or yarn to create a mixed-color textile or surface material.
Hue
Refers to color types, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue or violet.
Jacquard weave
Refers to a textile woven on a jacquard loom. Each thread can be manipulated independently on a jacquard loom; a vast array of weave patterns and designs is possible.
Lightfastness
A color's ability to stay true and unfaded when exposed to light.
Memo
A larger textile sample, used to view pattern and color for specification.
Nub
A small amount of colored fiber added to yarn during carding. This creates a color or texture when the yarn is woven into a textile.
Open-line textiles
A non-exclusive collection. Produced and sold to many furniture manufacturers and textile distributors.
Palette
A group of colors created for a specific purpose.
Panel fabric
A fabric that is ideally suited for furniture panels and tackboards. Also known as a vertical surface textile.
Pattern
A design that is either woven into a textile or applied after weaving using dyes or printing.
Pattern repeat
The length and width of a single unit of a design that is repeated to create a pattern.
Pick
A single horizontal yarn (fill or weft) in a woven textile. The number of picks per inch indicates the density of a fabric's construction.
Piece dye
Color applied to fabric after weaving. Performed in lot amounts that vary depending on dye vat size.
Pilling
When wear causes abraded fibers to roll up and form small balls on the surface of a textile.
Plain weave
A one up, one down warp and filling weave arrangement that creates a plain fabric. It is the simplest weave construction.
Proprietary textiles
These products are developed and created exclusively for specific customers and can only be specified or purchased through those textile distributors and furniture manufacturers.
Railroad pattern cutting
When a pattern is cut horizontally from the roll, leaving selvages at the top and bottom. The selvages represent the long rails of a train track and the width of the fabric represents the ties.
Ravel
Wear that causes individual yarns in a knitted or woven textile to wear out, separate or pull away.
Recolored fabrics
Fabrics in new colors based on current color directions. The content and pattern of the fabric remain unchanged from the original design.
Seating upholstery, seating textiles and seating fabrics
Textiles and other materials that are ideally suited for seating purposes.
Selvage
Finished edges on a roll of fabric that run the length of the fabric, preventing ravelling. The width of a fabric is measured selvage to selvage.
Slub
A portion of twisted yarn that is thickened. This effect can occur naturally (i.e. silk slubs) or it can be created deliberately for added texture. Slub yarns are used to create random surface interest in textiles.
Spinning
The process of drawing and twisting loose fibers to create a yarn that can be woven into textiles.
Stock dye
When loose fibers are dyed before spinning. These are then used to create multicolored yarns and fabrics.
Strength
A textile or yarn's ability to withstand stress without breaking.
Textile
Natural and synthetic fibers or yarns that are spun or woven into cloth. Textiles can be woven or unwoven.
Tweed
A woven textile with mixed colors and a textured surface created through novelty yarns.
Twill
A woven textile with a distinct diagonal pattern.
Ultraviolet (UV) stability
The ability of a finish or textile to resist fading.
Value
The lightness or darkness of a color.
Vertical surfaces
Textiles used on furniture panels, tackboards and other vertical product applications.
Warp
The vertical yarns of a woven fabric.
Warp-faced
A textile that has predominantly vertical yarns (warp yarns) on its face.
Weaving
Using a loom to create textiles. Fill (horizontal) threads run over and under warp (vertical) threads during the weaving process. Patterns are created using yarns in different sequences.
Weight
Textile weight is measured in ounces per linear yard. This helps to identify the density or thickness of a fabric's construction.
Woolen
A yarn created by spinning fibers using the woolen system. Characterized by both softness and bulkiness.
Worsted
A yarn created by spinning long fibers using the worsted system. Characterized by both smoothness and luster.
Wyzenbeek
A test used primarily for seating fabrics that determines whether or not a textile meets or exceeds industry standards for abrasion resistance. The measurement is given in double rubs, which indicate how many abrasions can be applied to the textile before it shows obvious wear. The test can also be applied to vertical surface fabrics.
Yarn
Fibers twisted into a single thread, which can then be woven into a textile.
Yarn dyeing
The process of dyeing yarns before weaving, making it possible to create multicolored textiles.
Glossary of Key Concepts Used by McDonough Braungart Design Chemistry
Biological metabolism
The natural processes of ecosystems are a biological metabolism, making safe and healthy use of materials in cycles of abundance.
Biological nutrient
A biodegradable material posing no immediate or eventual hazard to living systems that can be used for human purposes and can safely return to the environment to feed environmental processes.
Cradle-to-Cradle Design
Cradle-to-Cradle Design is MBDC's design paradigm, based on principles and an understanding of the pursuit of value, as well as MBDC's processes for product and material research and development, and for educating and training. At a fundamental level, the new paradigm proposes that human design can learn from nature to be effective, safe, enriching, and delightful. Cradle-to-Cradle Design models human industry on nature's processes, in which materials are viewed as nutrients circulating in healthy, safe metabolisms. Industry must protect and enrich ecosystems—nature's biological metabolism—while also maintaining safe, productive technical metabolism for the high-quality use and circulation of mineral, synthetic, and other materials.
Cradle-to-Cradle Design Protocol
A scientifically based, peer-reviewed process used to assess and optimize materials used in products and production processes in order to maximize health, safety, effectiveness, and high quality reutilization over many product life cycles.
Design chemistry
The incorporation of scientific and ecological knowledge into product and process design.
Design for disassembly
Designing a product to be dismantled for easier maintenance, repair, recovery, and reuse of components and materials.
Downcycling
The practice of recycling a material in such a way that much of its inherent value is lost (for example, recycling plastic into park benches).
Eco-effectiveness
MBDC's strategy for designing human industry that is safe, profitable, and regenerative, producing economic, ecological, and social value.
Eco-efficiency
The strategy for "sustainability" of minimizing harm to natural systems by reducing the amount of waste and pollution human activities generate.
Ecological intelligence
A product or process designed to embody the intelligence of natural systems (such as nutrient cycling, interdependence, abundance, diversity, solar power, regeneration).
Life cycle assessment
A technique for assessing the potential environmental impacts of a product by examining all the material and energy inputs and outputs at each life cycle stage.
McDonough Braungart index of sustainability
MBDC's service and design tool that evaluates a product's materials and processes so that redesign for sustainability can take place. During the process of redesign, the Index can be used to continuously track and monitor progress toward sustainability.
The Next Industrial Revolution
This emerging movement of production and commerce eliminates the concept of waste, uses energy from renewable sources, and celebrates cultural and biological diversity. The promise of the Next Industrial Revolution is a system of production that fulfills desires for economic and ecological abundance and social equity in both the short and long terms--becoming sustaining (not just sustainable) for all generations.
Product of consumption
A product designed for safe and complete return to the environment, which becomes a nutrient for living systems. The product of consumption design strategy allows products to offer effectiveness without the liability of materials that must be recycled or "managed" after use.
Product of service
A product that is used by the customer, formally or in effect, but owned by the manufacturer. The manufacturer maintains ownership of valuable material assets for continual reuse while the customer receives the service of the product without assuming its material liability. Products that can utilize valuable but potentially hazardous materials can be optimized as products of service.
Technical metabolism
Modeled on natural systems, the technical metabolism is MBDC's term for the processes of human industry that maintain and perpetually reuse valuable synthetic and mineral materials in closed loops.
Technical nutrient
A material that remains in a closed-loop system of manufacture, reuse, and recovery (the technical metabolism), maintaining its value through many product life cycles.
Unmarketables
Materials to be eliminated from human use because they cannot be maintained safely in either biological or technical metabolisms.
Waste equals food
A principle of natural systems and MBDC that eliminates the concept of waste. In this design strategy, all materials are viewed as continuously valuable, circulating in closed loops of production, use, and recycling.
